The Trainingbeta Podcast | A Rock Climbing Podcast
- Author: Vários
- Narrator: Vários
- Publisher: Podcast
- Duration: 278:43:08
- More information
Informações:
Synopsis
Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
Episodes
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TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber
17/10/2018 Duration: 01h32minIn this interview, Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr describe 5 training hacks to use if you don't have much time to train.
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TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing
19/09/2018 Duration: 01h17minIn this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.
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TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fear and Setting Big Goals
12/09/2018 Duration: 01h20minMina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame a fear of falling after a climbing accident, and her dialed-in diet.
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TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
15/08/2018 Duration: 54minI talk with climbing trainer, Matt Pincus, about how you can't fit everything into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.
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TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
09/08/2018 Duration: 01h10minIn this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.
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TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
01/08/2018 Duration: 01h16minIn this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.
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TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing
25/07/2018 Duration: 01h09minIn this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.
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TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps
27/06/2018 Duration: 01h19minIn this interview I talk with 3x Bouldering Nationals Champ, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains for climbing.
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TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers
20/06/2018 Duration: 01h12minIn this interview I talk with competitive climber and performance coach, Tiffany Melius, about how she trains for World Cup events and the Olympics, and how she coaches people to perform better mentally.
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TBP 105 :: Esther Smith - Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers
30/05/2018 Duration: 52minIn this interview I talk with physical therapist, Esther Smith, about common ankle and foot issues in climbers and how to rehab them.
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TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching
02/05/2018 Duration: 01h08minIn this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coaching.
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TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers
25/04/2018 Duration: 55minDr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. You can see her vast array of qualifications and experience on her website. I asked her to be on the podcast because eating disorders and disordered eating behaviors run rampant in the climbing community, and I wanted her to chime in to give us a little perspective.
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TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain
18/04/2018 Duration: 01h10minIn this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.
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TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries
11/04/2018 Duration: 01h19minAlex Biale has bouldered up to V13 and has done some impressive highballs. He also gets injured... a lot. He describes how he's trained through his climbing injuries and lays out his current training program that's made him more muscular and more injury-proof.
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TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program
28/03/2018 Duration: 01h16minIn this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.
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TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition
21/03/2018 Duration: 01h07minIn this interview, I talk with pro climber Sasha DiGiulian about her current training regime, how her goals have changed over the years, what significance she puts on FFA's, and how her body weight has affected her climbing and people's opinions of her.
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TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should
15/03/2018 Duration: 56minIn this interview, Tyler Nelson describes a way to use a simple scale to test your isometric strength (pulling as hard as you can on a motionless object), which can help you warm up for trying hard on climbs and determine whether or not you should be trying hard in the first place.
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Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols
07/03/2018 Duration: 22minThis is a mini version of the TrainingBeta Podcast, where I talk with trainer, Matt Pincus, for just 20 minutes. He compares the various finger training protocols out there and helps you figure out what protocol is best for your climbing goals, and the 3 main things you should be focused on, no matter what protocol you're using.
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TBP 097 :: How to Overcome Fear in Climbing with Author Roanne van Voorst
01/03/2018 Duration: 01h14minIn this interview with researcher and climber, Dr. Roanne van Voorst, we talk about her new book, Fear. In it, she interviewed Alex Honnold, Hazel Findlay, and many other extreme athletes about how they cope with and move through fear.
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TBP 096 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Imagery and Setting Realistic Goals
25/01/2018 Duration: 01h04minIn our second interview I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about her new book on sports performance. We discussed using imagery, setting realistic goals, performing under pressure, limiting beliefts, and staying motivated.