The Trainingbeta Podcast | A Rock Climbing Podcast

About Jorg Verhoeven Jorg Verhoeven is a professional Dutch climber who lives and trains in Austria. He's done about 150 world cups (in both bouldering and routes), and he won the Overall Lead World Cup in 2008 and was World Youth Champion twice. He did the 4th free ascent of The Nose on El Cap (5.14), and he recently did Wheel of Life (V15). He was on the cover of Climbing magazine for his historic repeat of The Nose, which further piqued my interest in this all-around badass climber. I wanted to know how he's capable of doing it all, so we chatted about his training, his attitude about climbing and life, and how he keeps it fun and interesting for himself. What We Talked About How he trains in his limited gym facility Whether or not he does finger training and campusing (very interesting answers) His internal struggle on The Nose How he trained for the Nose His very specific training for World Cups and other comps Jorg Verhoeven Links Jorg on Wheel of Life (V15) (Video) Jorg Verhoeven on The Nose (Video)

About Neely Quinn Neely is your host for the podcast every week, but she's also a practicing nutrition therapist, and has been since about 2007. She's helped hundreds of people lose weight and get closer to optimal health. She takes an individualized approach to nutrition, and in this podcast episode she tackles weight loss for climbers and how to approach it properly (if you need to approach it at all).  Weight Loss for Climbers Calories Carbs Food Sensitivities When to see a doctor Overtraining Want to work with Neely one-on-one? Her nutrition coaching page: www.trainingbeta.com/nutrition-coaching Email her at neely@trainingbeta.com

About Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his first V15 (The Nest). He's an all around strong, determined climber, and I wanted to know what makes him tick. What We Talked About How he prepared for Jumbo Love How he stayed motivated on Jumbo Love for 7 years How depression has affected him and his climbing Getting over psychological plateaus Future goals Ethan Pringle Links Ethan on Jumbo Love (Video) Ethan Pringle on Instagram Ethan Pringle on Facebook

About Matt Helliker Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, and guides in Chamonix, France. As an ice climber, a mixed climber, a trad climber, a sport climber, and a boulderer, I was really interested in knowing how Matt trains to stay strong for it all. You can find out more about him and his first ascents on his athlete page at Patagonia and on his personal site.  What We Talked About What winter alpine climbs entail How he trains for it all Climbing 5.14a Hard alpine ascents in remote areas Training 7 days a week Why it's hard to do it all Related Links Video trailer of Citadel, a film about Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey in Alaska  Matt Helliker's personal site: matthelliker.com Matt Helliker on Instagram Matt Helliker on Twitter Matt Helliker on Facebook

I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and I expect that a lot of people will want to try it for themselves. I researched the diet quite a bit a few years back and then experimented with it on my own. I've helped nutrition clients onboard to a ketogenic diet, and I've talked with a lot of people about the difficulties and successes they've had with it. It's a really interesting topic, partly because everyone is so different that it may or may not work for you. It didn't work for me (for reasons I'll explain in the episode), but it may work for you. And who knows - if I'd done things differently it may have worked for me. In this episode, I explain: What the ketogenic diet isWhat the macronutrient ratios areHow to know if you're actually in ketosisWhy people like the ketogenic dietThe difference between the ketogenic diet and Paleo/PrimalWhat foods are pretty much no-no's on the dietMy experience and m

About David Mason David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13. In 2014, he managed to send 20 boulder problems between V11 and V13 during a 17-day trip to Vastervik, Sweden. He's a Senior Coach at The Climbing Works, a gym in Sheffield, England, and he does personal training/coaching for people there. He's known for his relentless training, and that's what we talked about in this interview.  What We Talked About Dealing with failure Shoulder dislocation and injury 3-a-day training sessions Training for King of Limbs (V13/14) His exact training schedule How he'd change his training schedule for someone not as strong Related Links Video of David Mason on King of Limbs Article and videos of his trip to Sweden in Rock & Ice David Mason on Instagram David Mason's website and photography Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training progra

Date: January 27th, 2016 About Matt Lloyd Matt Lloyd is a long-time friend of my husband, Seth, having started climbing on the same team in Denver about 15 years ago. He's known for his bold R and X-rated ascents, and now for having started a small gym in Denver called Mountain Strong that's devoted to training for climbing. What We Talked About How he prepares for free solosHis hardest sendsWhy he built a gym devoted to training for climbingHow olympic lifts and crossfit workouts help climbersHow to build fitnessThe future of training for climbingRelated Links Matt Lloyd's gym: www.mountainstrongdenver.comArticle on Climbing Mag by Matt about overcoming fearTraining Programs for You  

About Nina Williams Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse comp in 2015, but she spends most of her energy climbing outdoors and training for that. Being a full-time sponsored climber, she's able to travel often, and she's spent time in Australia, South Africa, Switzerland, Hueco Tanks, and other popular climbing destinations. I sat down with Nina to talk about how she trains, what she eats, her attitude toward climbing, and what it's like training and climbing with Alex Puccio.   What We Talked About Why she did highball boulders and why she doesn't anymore Where her climbing is going Why trad climbing is so satisfying to her How she changed her approach to comp climbing Who trains her Her home training set up What she eats and why Related Links Nina Williams on Instagram Nina Williams on Facebook Trailer for Za, a movie about Nina, Daniel, Nalle, and Dave Graham Training Programs for You Check out our Rou

  About Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Honestly, I'm not going to do him justice with a short introduction of his climbing and career, as he's accomplished so much in his 37 years. So here's his Wikipedia page. Please read it - it's fascinating.  What We Talked About His climbing career How he's trained for different projects How mixed climbing helps him to train for sport and trad  The mistakes most climbers make in their training Excelling even when the pressure is on How he deals with fear on scary routes His secret diet (exposed! woohoo!) Related Links Dave's blog: www.davemacleod.blogspot.com Dave MacLeod on Facebook Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.  

  About Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible.  What We Talked About His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses How he works with clients Training for crack climbing Pinky crack drills Free soloing 3,000 routes Case study of bouldering client Sample Assessment of One of Tom's Clients Intro to "Jack Daniels"   Jack is a 34 year old climber who has always been told by his friends that he has good finger strength, but never quite seems to transfer it to his projects. He either gets pumped too quickly on sport routes that feel within his redpoint ability and falls off when the moves are continuously strenuous, or on long style boulde

Podcast is on iTunes is HEREDirect Download: LINKDate: December 7th, 2015 About Thomasina Pidgeon Thomasina Pidgeon is a Canadian boulderer - one of the strongest Canadian female climbers, actually, having done over 40 boulders V11 to V12. She's also competed quite a bit, and been quite successful on national and international levels. She does this at the age of 40, all while living out of her van, which she's done since she was 19 years old, and while raising her 9 year-old daughter.  What We Talked About Van life and being a mom Her training regimen designed by Steve Maisch What's different in her climbing now that she's 40 How she trains now vs before she started competing Her success on a high fat diet Related Links Thomasina's website: www.thomasinapidgeon.blogspot.com Thomasina on Facebook Thomasina on Instagram Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.  Please Review The Podcas

About Steve Bechtel I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, catering to individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander, WY called Elemental Fitness, where he works with climbers and athletes of all kinds. What We Talked About What makes a good climbing trainer Confusion about periodization Confusion about finger training Repeaters vs. Eva Lopez training Climbing as training for climbing Listener questions Related Links Steve’s website, Climb Strong at www.climbstrong.com Climb Strong on Facebook: www.facebook.com/climbstrong Steve’s gym in Lander is Elemental Performance and Fitness at http://lmntl.net Steve’s book about strength training on trainingbeta.

About Isabelle Faus Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are just so many amazing climbers here!) Isabelle climbed her first V14 in South Africa recently, and has done several V13's, including Nuthin' but Sunshine in a day. She also just started sport climbing and did her first 5.14a the other day. She'll tell you all about her climbing, training, and diet in this episode.  What We Talked About Her bouldering career highlights How her coach as a child taught her so much about training Her weekly schedule for workouts and climbing Exactly what her workouts look like How she makes it work without sponsors How she stays injury-free Lots more Related Links Isabelle on Instagram: @Fausey Isabelle on Island.io Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk

About Justen Sjong Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across the globe. He currently works out of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder and does online coaching via www.climbingsensei.com. He has a thing or two to say about climbers improving their mental game and becoming better climbers overall.  What We Talked About The difference between a climbing coach and a climbing trainer When to say "take" on routes How he coaches Alex Puccio How to increase confidence, and why it's important How your body language can influence your climbing performance Lots more Related Links Justen's online climbing services: www.climbingsensei.com Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my

TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes Date: November 4th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Will Anglin   Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14. He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible). What we talked about: The importance of strength training Difference between strength and power His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks Whether or not you should train to exhaustion Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not Who should be campusing Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not Things We Mentioned Wil

Date: October 5th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Nathan Drolet   We met Nathan Drolet in the Red River Gorge a couple years ago when his badass girlfriend, Natalie Hawley, was projecting 8 Ball while I was working on Snooker. We ran into them a lot over that season in the Red and in Chattanooga, where they now live.  What I noticed about Nate is that he's a calm, collected, strong, solid climber. He was obviously dedicated to climbing, having moved to the Red to work at Miguel's so he could pursue it full time. He's climbed up to 5.14a and V11, and he won the 2011 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell. And he's a really nice guy. When I asked you all a while back for suggestions for "everyday climbers" (ie not pros) whose trainin

Direct Download: LINKDate: August 20th, 2015 About Ben Moon Ben Moon is an iconic climber from England who's accomplished much in his 40-year climbing career. He's 49 years old and just sent 9a (5.14d) this year, after having put up the first of the same grade in 1990 ("Hubble" in France). He's bouldered up to V14, and he does all this while running a successful climbing company called Moon Climbing and raising a child with his wife. He also created the classic Moon Board and the Moon Fingerboard, designed for the stronger, more massochistic among us. I wanted to talk to this legend about how he's achieved all of this, and he kindly granted me an interview. By the way, there are 2 Ben Moon's in the climbing world: this English Ben Moon and the videographer/climber Ben Moon who lives in the U.S. and recently made a video about Denali the dog. What We Talked About Here's what English Ben Moon and I talked about: His history as a climber Hubble, the first 8c+ ever, and how it got upgraded to 9a Training for an

Direct Download: LINKDate: August 12th, 2015   (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Jon Cardwell   Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored climber and also holds jobs as a route setter and youth climbing coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder. I've been hearing all about him crushing Rifle and the Fortress this year, so we sat down and talked about how he trains for that, what he's psyched on right now, and his plans to go back to France this year and finally do Biographie. He's a super humble, sweet and well-spoken guy, and I really enjoyed this conversation with him. What we talked about: How he trained for The Game (V15) How he trains for hard routes His attempt at Biographie (5.15a) this spring, and what he'll do differently next trip His successful Rifle season this year, including 5.14a onsights His unconventional use of

Date: July 29th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Adam Macke Adam Macke (pronounced "Mackey") is a climbing trainer out of Chattanooga, TN. He works with people out of High Point Climbing and Fitness, which is a pretty new gym downtown. Adam has been personal training people since the early 2000's, and uses weight training and Muscle Activation Technique (MAT) to unlock climbers' potential. He's also a climber of 8 years himself. His methods with people in training for climbing are quite different than other trainers, so our conversation was pretty interesting and out of the box. To find out more about him, go to www.mackefit.com. What We Talked About How he differs from other climbing trainers What MAT is and how it's

About Neely Quinn I (Neely Quinn) am a Nutrition Therapist and a 5.13 rock climber, owner of TrainingBeta, and someone who's obsessed over food, health, and climbing performance since 1999. I've helped thousands of people find their optimal diet, lose weight, and be the best athlete they can be. My nutrition work lives at www.neelyquinn.com. As the host of the TrainingBeta podcast, I'm generally not the one in the spotlight in these interviews, but in this episode, I put my hide on the line and told you my opinions and advice about nutrition for climbers.  What I Talked About In this episode, I asked for questions from you guys before the episode and answered as many of them as I could before getting sick of hearing my own voice ;) A good carb, protein, fat ratio for climbers Whether intermittent fasting is good for climbers Whether ketosis is good for climbers Why healthy centenarians can eat grains but Paleo says they're bad for us How sugar affects us, and how much we should eat Blood type diet Other stu