The Trainingbeta Podcast | A Rock Climbing Podcast

  About Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible.  What We Talked About His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses How he works with clients Training for crack climbing Pinky crack drills Free soloing 3,000 routes Case study of bouldering client Sample Assessment of One of Tom's Clients Intro to "Jack Daniels"   Jack is a 34 year old climber who has always been told by his friends that he has good finger strength, but never quite seems to transfer it to his projects. He either gets pumped too quickly on sport routes that feel within his redpoint ability and falls off when the moves are continuously strenuous, or on long style boulde