The Trainingbeta Podcast | A Rock Climbing Podcast

Date: June 23rd, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Training for Climbing on A Time Budget This week, in our tenth mini Ask Kris episode, we talked about how you can train at home or in the gym on a time budget. We talk about what boulderers should focus on as opposed to route climbers, and how you can train at home or in the gym in less than an hour 2 or 3 times a week. More Details about The Talk Quickie power endurance drills When to do circuit training Don't forget about abs! Climbing should be the focus Freebie Home Workout This workout is the same one I posted on the last Ask Kris episode about efficient home workouts, but I figured it's pertinent to this episode, too. So if you didn't do it last time, go get it this time! This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun

About Joshua Rucci This is an interview with Joshua Rucci, a collegiate Strength and Conditioning Coach in the Southeastern Conference (in Athens). He currently coaches women's basketball and women's gymnastics, and he has experience coaching all kinds of athletes, including the Chicago Bulls. He has always been passionate about helping athletes get better and reach their potential. Upon arriving to the Southeast, Joshua quickly realized that his days of team sports were over and that he belonged in the woods mountain biking and climbing. Joshua entered the climbing game later in life at the ripe old age of 24 and for the past decade has been training to transform his body from a 200lb college lacrosse player to a 155lb rock climber. Joshua’s progression has been slow and steady up to 5.13 sport and double digit boulders with limited interruption from injury or major setbacks. Amidst having to work long hours as a coach, Joshua has effectively been able to manage his time to accommodate training, getting to t

Efficient Home Training for Climbing This week, in our ninth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how you can train at home efficiently, no matter what equipment you have to work with. We go through a few scenarios, ranging from a guy Kris worked with who had only a few basic pieces of equipment, all the way up to someone who has a home wall, weights, and other equipment at home.  He also gives you a few workouts you can do at home.  More Details about The Talk How to train with only rings and a few weights How to train with a home wall The optimal home set-up Several workouts you can do at home Freebie Home Workout This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun with this... Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes) Pu

About Dr. Tom Hackett This is an interview with Dr. Tom Hackett, a shoulder, elbow, and knee surgeon who performed all three of my husband's and my shoulder surgeries. Dr. Hackett works out of the acclaimed Steadman Clinic in Vail, Colorado, and has extensive training in arthroscopic treatment of sports-related injuries. Before he was a surgeon, he worked as a mountaineer and a climbing guide, so he knows a lot about what climbers actually do with their bodies, unlike many other orthopedic docs.  In our experiences with him, he's taken our climbing goals into strong consideration when deciding how to treat our shoulders, making sure to give us the best chances of fully recovering as possible. He uses what seem to be the most advanced and specialized techniques in arthroscopic surgery, and he discusses the fact that some other docs are falling behind in that regard. More About Our Talk The most common injuries in climbers, and how to treat them How to find the best surgeon for your shoulder The differences be

How to Use A Heart Rate Monitor for Training and How to Increase Your Lactic Acid Threshold This week, in our eighth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about two related topics: lactic acid thresholds and heart rate monitor training. Lactic acid is basically the stuff that builds up in your body to make you feel "pumped", and it comes partially from having a high heart rate during activity.  In terms of lactic acid, we talk about: how you can increase your lactic acid threshold how a climber might test their lactic acid threshold just like runners do what to do with that information and how to decrease the lactic acid build-up while you're climbing  One of the big ways to decrease lactic acid build-up while you're climbing is to decrease your heart rate while you're climbing, and one way to train that is with a heart rate monitor. Regarding training with a heart rate monitor, we talk about: how to train with a heart rate monitor at what level of your max heart rate you should be training what kinds of wor

About Lynn Hill This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free the Nose on El Cap (5.14-), the first woman to climb 5.14a, the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and she was a fierce competitor. She has over 30+ international titles and claimed 5 victories at the Arco Rock Master. More than once, she was the only person - man or woman - to do a route at a comp.   These days, she's a mother and an entrepreneur, and has settled down a bit. We talked about how she used to train for projects, what it was like back in the day, and the inequalities between women and men in the sport.  More About Our Talk How she trained for the Nose and other climbs The significance of FFA's Whether men and women should compete on the same routes at comps Her weight lifting records How to overcome fear and be bold like Lynn Motherhood and how it changed her climbing Lynn Hill Links Lynn's website: www.lynnhillclimbing.com Lynn's Instagram: @_linacolina_ Lynn o

Are You Overtraining? This week, in our seventh mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about the signs and symptoms of overtraining, and how much rest people really need.  Here's what we talked about: What overtraining looks like How long you should feel tired after starting a training program The emotional effects of training and overtraining Sugar cravings, hunger, and overtraining Kris's Programs Have Rest Built In To Them All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have rest built into every 6-week cycle so that you don't and overtrain. He knows all too well that not resting enough creates injuries, exhaustion, and burnout. In each 6-week cycle, you actually do 5 weeks of training and 1 week of active resting (meaning, you don't take the entire week off if you don't want to - you just don't train hard during that time). If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program. More ab

About Ryan Vachon This is an interview with Ryan Vachon, a 43-year-old who won the Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition this year (2016) and sent Saphira, M15- shortly afterward. As a full-time climate scientist at his company, Earth Inititiatives, he has a lot on his plate. He's the ultimate weekend warrior, and he puts in long hours of training most weeks in order to stay super fit.  Ryan is a Rab athlete, and we recently teamed up with Rab to get you a 20% discount on their stuff. Get the discount here.  More About Our Talk What is mixed climbing and where do we draw the line between mixed and sport? Work/life balance His intense 30-minute sessions Exactly how he trains How his vegetarian diet affects his climbing Why the M Scale is "weird" Ryan Vachon Links Ryan's work website: earth-initiatives.org Ryan's Instagram: @nerd_in_nature A recap of Ouray with footage of Ryan winning this year (Video) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. O

Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing This week, in our sixth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve overall fitness for climbing. I was actually a little bit confused about what "fitness" really meant, and Kris helped me understand what it is and how to gain more of it.  Here's what we talked about: What fitness actually is Specific workouts you should do to train fitness How I should train for my long-ass route project Who needs fitness?  How a workout that has no climbing in it can improve your climbing fitness Train Your Fitness with Kris's Programs All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have a focus on overall fitness. He's a big advocate for creating great all-around athletes because he believes that strong people make strong climbers.  If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program. More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online  Train bou

About Aaron Mulkey This is an interview with Aaron Mulkey, the 39-year-old who was dubbed the "Patriarch of Cody Ice" for his 100+ first ascents in the Wyoming area. We dig in to what motivates him to find new routes and climb so hard, all while maintaining a full-time high-stress job and helping to raise two teenagers.  He's been training his butt off and divulges all the details about his daily, monthly, and yearly cycles of training so he can stay strong all year.  More About Our Talk Ice climbing training and how it ties in with climbing and kayaking training How his tenacity and stubbornness help him succeed How he trains fitness for all-day climbing Training with Connie at the Alpine Training Center How he maintains a full-time job and still finds time to climb Aaron Mulkey Links Aaron's website: www.coldfear.com Aaron's Instagram: @coldfear Aaron climbing ice in Norway (Video) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our

Improving Core Strength for Climbing This week, in our fifth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve core strength for climbing. Having just spent last week in Rifle on my project, I realized that I need to gain a lot of core strength myself, so I loved this episode.  Here's what we talked about: What our "core" actually is What exercises you should do to train core strength How I should train for my core-intensive kneebar crux Why we don't train core with low reps/high weights How to train your lower back to avoid injury Train Your Core with Kris's Programs All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have a focus on core stability and strength. If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program. More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online  Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingBeta Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Prog

About Mathilde Becerra This is an interview with 25 year-old Mathilde Becerra, who's on the French National Climbing team. In 2015, Mathilde ended up in the top 10 overall in lead climbing, and even though she doesn't have much time for outdoor climbing, she has climbed up to 5.14a and V11 outside. You may have heard Mathilde's name in my last interview with Sean McColl because she's his long-time girlfriend. I thought it'd be really interesting to hear from a European lady crusher. She started climbing when she was a kid, and excelled very quickly. In this interview, we talked about what it's like being on the French team (as opposed to the US or Canadian team), how she makes it work financially as a full-time pro climber, and how she trains physically and mentally to perform so well at comps. More About Our Talk What her training cycles look like How she trains for route climbing and bouldering Aerobic conditioning How she trains to be more dynamic as a short climber Her strong opinions on bodyweight and c

Shoulder Care for ClimbersThis week, in our fourth mini episode of Ask Kris,wedecided to talk about shoulders - one of my favorite topics.Alot of climbers have shoulder issues, and we discuss how toavoidinjuries and how to prevent them. Most common shoulder issues for climbersWhen to see a doctorWhat exercises you should do for injury preventionWhat exercises you should avoid when you have an injuryMore about Neely's experience with shoulder surgeryTrain Your Shoulders with Kris's ProgramsAll of the programs that Kris wrote fortrainingbeta.comhave a focus on shoulder stability, strength, andinjuryprevention.If you want 3 complete workouts every weektoget you stronger and help you stay injury free, check outourboulderingtraining program or our routetrainingprogram. More about KrisTrainwithKris one-on-one or online Train bouldering or routeclimbing usingone of Kris's programs on TrainingBetaKris's 6-Week Power Endurance ProgramPlease Review The Podcast on iTunes!Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HER

About Sean McColl This is an interview with 28 year-old Sean McColl, a well-known Canadian climber who's accomplished amazing things both outdoors and in competitions.  I can't describe his amazing accomplishments better than he does on his website, so here's an excerpt...  "Sean was the Canadian Youth Champion in his age group ever year from 1999-2005 having won every National Championships he attended. During his youth career, Sean claimed 5 world titles; since no other youth competitor has won more titles; this achievement is unsurpassed in youth climbing history to this day." "Since Sean started competing on the World Cup circuit, he has won 4 events (2 in bouldering, 2 in lead) and been on the podium another 23 times. Sean has won the Overall CombinedRankings and has been 2rd and 3rd in the Lead and Boulder Overall rankings respectively." "As an outdoor climber, Sean has onsighted 5.14a (8b+) and climbed multiple 5.14d’s (9a). On the bouldering side, Sean is one of a dozen climbers in the world to flash

Training for Bouldering vs Routes This week, in our third mini episode of Ask Kris, we decided to talk about the similarities and differences between training for bouldering vs routes, and what crossover there is between them. Why route climbers need to train power and how to do it Why boulderers need to train fitness and how to do it The best climbing drills for each The best weight lifts for each Relevant Links More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online  Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingBeta Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

About Teal Dreher This is an interview with Teal Dreher, a V8 boulderer who climbed through the grades in just a few years using various training programs. She also regularly puts in 70 hours per week as an environmental engineer, so I thought she'd be a perfect person to represent normal non-pro climbers.  She takes us through her evolution of climbing training, starting with the Anderson brothers' program, then through Eric Horst's teachings, and finally with our very own Kris Peters, who she's currently training with.  I honestly loved talking with Teal because I felt like we could relate on climbing on a different level than my pro climber guests. I hope you like this very informative conversation as much as I did! What We Talked About V8 in 3 years Anderson Bros' program vs Horst's program vs Kris Peters' program Juggling training and working Teal Dreher Links Teal's website: www.tealasaurus.wordpress.com Teal's Instagram: @tealasaurus Teal on Barfly V8 in Little Cottonwood Canyon (Video) Training Pr

New Ask Kris Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. Don't worry: I'll still be doing the regular podcast episodes every week, too! We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these mini episodes. This week, in our second episode, we decided to talk about the three best lifts for rock climbers. Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked with some of the strongest climbers in the world, as well as a ton of regular Joes like you and me. He's seen his methods work on 100's of climbers so far, and so I thought I'd give him a platform to share his knowledge with you guys. Here's episode 2 of "Ask Kris", and hopefully we'll get one out every week. If you have a question for him, email me at neely@trainingbeta.com and we'll try to answer it. 3 Best Lifts for Climbers Why climbers should weight lift Why some strong climbers can get away

About Mercedes Pollmeier   This is an interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, a Strength and Conditioning coach out of Seattle, Washington. She has a Master's degree in Human Movement and started working with climbers of all abilities, including elite level/competition climbers, in Colorado. Currently she works at the Seattle Bouldering Project with climbers and other athletes of all ability levels. I wanted to ask Mercedes about her training philosophies, and how she trains intermediate climbers in particular.  Also, if you detect an accent, it's Australian. She came to the States in the early 2000's and promptly got rid of her accent, which I find amazing, seeing as how I can't even lose my Wisconsin accent... What We Talked About 5.10 and 5.11 training What ARCing is and how to use it How to break into 5.11 or 5.12 Training for 5.11 vs 5.13 The most important lifts for a climber Her book on training, Simple Strength Mercedes Pollmeier Links Mercedes Pollmeier's website Mercedes' article on Quadrupedal Moveme

New Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these episodes. This week, we decided to start with finger training, since it's such a popular topic.  Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked with some of the strongest climbers in the world, as well as a ton of regular Joes like you and me. He's seen his methods work on 100's of climbers so far, and so I thought I'd give him a platform to share his knowledge with you guys. Here's episode 1 of "Ask Kris", and hopefully we'll get one out every week. If you have a question for him, email me at neely@trainingbeta.com and we'll try to answer it.  What We Talked About How he likes to train finger strength Who should train finger strength and who should not What "repeaters" are and how to do them Kris Peters Links More about Kris Train with Kr

About Neil Gresham   Neil Gresham is a British climber and trainer who's been training people for about 20 years now. He's the training columnist at both Climbing and Rock & Ice magazines, and has written extensively on the topic. At 44, he's still pushing his limits on sport climbs (14b last year), ice climbs, and deep water solos, among other types of climbing. Although he has no formal background in training (I'm finding that to be irrelevant in these interviews), he's studied the literature on climbing training and other related sports. But most of all, he's debatably one of the most experienced climbing trainers out there, having been doing this pretty full time since the 1990's.  He also wrote an interesting article recently about his ketogenic diet that's made a huge difference in his climbing and body composition, which I responded to with my own podcast episode about the diet. We talk about his experience with keto and exactly what he eats on it.  What We Talked About Case study of 5.10/11 climb