Conscious Chatter With Kestrel Jenkins

In episode 102, Kestrel welcomes Dominique Drakeford, the founder of Melanin & Sustainable Style, to the show. A platform that is bringing melanin to the forefront of sustainable fashion, beauty and living, MelaninASS is helping to give the ethical industry an authentic and culturally relevant voice.  "This whole community is about 'let's talk about what's wrong' - we talk about what's wrong from an environmental point of view, we talk about fast fashion and we point fingers at H&M and we do all this ... but let's look at ourselves and let's talk about some real issues that are wrong because honestly, sustainability is founded on culture - the essence of sustainability is rooted in culture and we don't talk about it."  -Dominique Drakeford, Founder of Melanin & Sustainable Style In this episode, Dominique shares a bit of her background and the eclectic experiences that have led her into the sustainable style conversation. Kestrel and Dominique also discuss the layers behind two notable articles w

In episode 101, Kestrel welcomes trailblazing print textile designer Becky Earley to the show. A designer, researcher, educator and facilitator for circular textiles, Becky is also a key part of the research consortium work for Mistra Future Fashion, as well as the UE Horizon 2020 project Trash2Cash. "The job and role of the designer is changing radically - you're not just bringing a product to the shop floor anymore - you have to know so much more now about what will happen next."  -Becky Earley, Circular Design Expert In this episode, Becky takes us back to some of the history and evolution of her work, including her early "upcycling" projects before the word had even been established. She highlights how she believes the designer plays a unique role moving into the future and how circular design concepts are part of that shift.  Additionally, Becky shares thoughts on how moving forward, she anticipates that the user will have more control and knowledge around the speed of the things in their wardrobe. So,

In episode 100, Kestrel welcomes Nadine Farag, the writer behind One Who Dresses, to the show. A website where she slowly explores the question of 'what is style,' One Who Dresses is a digital space dedicated to understanding the intricacies of personal style. Nadine is also known for her sustainable fashion writing for Man Repeller. "Personal style is an extension of our being. It's another way to understand and articulate who we are in the world."  -Nadine Farag of One Who Dresses Throughout this episode, Nadine explores her transition from thinking about sustainability to the art of dressing when it comes to understanding our fashion sense. She also walks us through some of the discoveries she has made about personal style along the way. For Nadine, she believes we're all on this journey of trying to understand who we are and to articulate that to the world around us, and personal style is an extension of who we are, which allows us to enhance that. Kestrel and Nadine also talk about the way they both use

In episode 99, Kestrel welcomes Shobha Philips, the CEO and founder of Proclaim, to the show. An ethically-made and inclusively-designed bra collection, Proclaim is expanding the definition of nude by celebrating real women. "I think that lingerie should be marketed to the women that wear it - celebrating women's bodies of all types, all skin colors, letting women see themselves represented in these images, and feel like they are included and that they are beautiful."  -Shobha Philips, CEO + Founder of Proclaim Throughout this episode, Shobha shares insight on the narrow definition of the color nude, and how she's redefining it with Proclaim. In a past blog post, Shobha wrote: “What started as an annoyance about the color nude turned into something much bigger. It turned into the opportunity to revolutionize an industry. Proclaim is a love letter to women who demand change rather than settling for the status quo.” Kestrel asks if there are other layers of the lingerie industry that are expired or need to be 

In episode 98, Kestrel welcomes Janet Wu and Erin Wold, the cofounders of SilkRoll, to the show. The ultimate community to trade and discover high quality fashion from style-mates around the world without spending an extra penny, SilkRoll's vision is to build the world’s largest shared closet. "The way that the resale space works is that our clothes depreciate really fast in second hand ... the minute you buy something from the retail store, pop the tag, wear it once, and the next day you try to put it on a second hand site to sell it, it's going to be worth less than 50% of what you paid for it."  -Janet Wu, cofounder + CEO of SilkRoll Throughout this episode, Janet and Erin provide insight into why they decided to build their business, using digital currency instead of dollars as their primary currency. And, they explain why they believe SilkRoll has large potential for scalability. Additionally, Kestrel asks Janet and Erin to share their thoughts on the state of fashion, and where they see the sharing eco

In episode 97, Kestrel welcomes Kelly Wang Shanahan, the founder of The Ziran, to the show. A Los Angeles-based label which offers a new line of luxury silks, The Ziran's mission is to weave tradition into the modern world, leading a new generation to live the Ziran way: natural, spontaneous, and free. "Fashion is important and it's not only a physical reflection of how you perceive yourself, but also how you want to be perceived. Otherwise we would walk out of the house naked every day. So, every time you put on a piece of clothing, you're making a choice and there aren't a lot of things other than eating food that you choose to do every single day."  -Kelly, founder of The Ziran Throughout this episode, Kelly shares insight into the cultural history connected to xiang yun sha silk, and the extensive process behind its creation. Kestrel and Kelly also discuss the pros and cons of manufacturing in Los Angeles, and the challenges that come with building a new luxury label.  The below thoughts, ideas + organiz

In episode 96, Kestrel welcomes Hannah Davis, the founder of BANGS shoes, to the show. A footwear company with a social mission and a partnership with Kiva, BANGS believes that "your adventure can help others find theirs". "I want to provide people opportunities vs things."  -Hannah of Bangs Shoes Throughout this episode, Hannah shares more insight into her experience manufacturing abroad, and the realities about where it's possible to actually produce vulcanized shoes. In addition, she expands further on BANGS Shoes' partnership with Kiva, and the way the nonprofit allows companies like BANGS to do good while at the same time, building out their business. The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat: VF Corporation, company Hannah's business partner worked with in the past (VF Corporation houses brands like Vans, Timberland and more) Kiva, BANGS' nonprofit partner Microfinance: "the idea of giving someone a loan in small quantities" Dan Pallotta's The Way We Think About Charity Is

In episode 94, Kestrel welcomes Anna Lisa Grieve, the co-creator of Recess City, to the show. A lifestyle and travel blog, Recess City is a project by Anna Lisa and her husband Porter. Since September 2017, they have been traveling the world, living in hotels and showcasing ethical fashion brands along the way. "People suddenly realized that their food came from somewhere and that it mattered how it was made, and I think the same thing is happening in the world of fashion now. And, people are not just looking at clothing as a thing but understanding that there is a person behind it."  -Anna Lisa of Recess City Throughout this episode, Anna Lisa shares more on how she got into blogging, and how it has evolved into a business + lifestyle her her and her husband Porter. Also, Kestrel + Anna Lisa discuss the complexities when it comes to defining what "ethical fashion" means. Stay tuned for later in the show when Anna Lisa rounds up some of her favorite ethical fashion brands of the moment.  The below thoughts,

In episode 94, Kestrel welcomes Suzanne Lewis, the founder & designer of Zanni to the show. By reinventing the classic little black dress, Zanni uses technical performance fabrics and manufactures in Los Angeles to create what they call, "dresses for whatever."  "As much as people made fun of the athleisure trend when it came out, I think what we're seeing is that everyone wants to be comfortable, and people want balance. They don't want to have to have one outfit for each activity of the day - they want to have an outfit that works with them."  -Suzanne Lewis, Founder & Designer of Zanni Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Suzanne discuss where performance fabrics fit into the fashion industry today. Suzanne shares what determined her fabric choice for her dresses, and more on what polyamide elastanes are comprised of. Suzanne opens up about the difficulty in finding the best feeling fabric for her dresses, and how while she wants to bring recycled poly options into her pieces down the line, she ha

In episode 93, Kestrel welcomes Eileen Mockus, the CEO of Coyuchi, and Margot Lyons, Coyuchi’s Sustainability + Production Manager to the show. A home textile company that is committed to using minimally processed organic & natural fibers, Coyuchi also has a human commitment to the hands that touch each product.   "We do sense that the customer is looking for newness, and this allows them to have that newness but at the same time, gives us the ability to take that product back and do something else with it."  -Eileen Mockus, CEO of Coyuchi on Coyuchi For Life Throughout this episode, Kestrel explores Coyuchi's evolving business model with Eileen and Margot. They also focus on the complexities of finding organic linen, and how Coyuchi discovered a small group of farmers in Europe who are growing organic flax, and using it as a rotational crop. Apparently, the organic flax regenerates their fields for the organic food crops that are their primary source of income.  Additionally, Kestrel, Eileen and Margot

In episode 92, Kestrel welcomes Lyn Slater, the woman behind Accidental Icon, to the show. A cultural influencer, professor, model, writer, content creator and speaker, Lyn has been featured in Women’s Wear Daily, Refinery29, WhoWhatWear, and more. She shares the true story of how she got the name Accidental Icon, and how it wasn't as much of an accidental story as the press has led us to think. "She is the woman who ... does not consume garments, she lives her life in them and dresses honestly."  -Lyn Slater, Accidental Icon Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Lyn discuss ideas around whether or not fashion and consumption innately have to go hand-in-hand. Lyn shares her distinct thoughts on personal style or "no style", and how she's always been interested in the connection between dressing and identity. Additionally, Lyn outlines how she has always used fashion in what she calls a "performative way" to express her identity at any given time in the world. For Lyn, she has never let her education get stagn

In episode 91, Kestrel welcomes Harper Poe, the founder of Proud Mary, to the show. By partnering with global artisans to design modern goods using age-old techniques, Proud Mary grants local artisans an exponentially larger audience, while bolstering the creative industry within their communities. "People are going to keep buying clothes - that's not going to slow down, I don't think ... I think it's hard from a marketing point of view when both of those things are lumped together because artisan made and factory production are two very different things." -Harper Poe, founder of Proud Mary Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Harper discuss the evolution of Proud Mary, and the newest direction Harper has taken the company in shifting to a direct-to-consumer model. They also explore the intricate differences between artisan made and ethical factory production, especially when it comes to whether or not this is something shoppers are paying close attention to.  The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were b

In episode 90, Kestrel welcomes Davis Smith, the CEO and founder of Cotopaxi to the show. A brand that creates innovative outdoor products and experiences, Cotopaxi works to fund sustainable poverty relief, move people to do good, and inspire adventure. "Originally I think ... it was the grantmaking ... where we were going to have our impact, but as we've started to put together these impact reports, I'm seeing that a lot of the impact that we're having is actually through our purchasing power, it's through our supply chain. " -Davis Smith, founder + CEO of Cotopaxi Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Davis discuss Cotopaxi's business model, and Davis shares more on his intention with the company to use business to alleviate poverty - through what they like to call "holistic development".  Davis also shares more on how Cotopaxi has built partnerships with llama farmers in Bolivia, and how they use llama wool as insulation in some of their jackets (instead of down or some kind of synthetic insulation). The b

In episode 89, Kestrel welcomes Christina Stembel, the founder of Farmgirl Flowers, to the show. An online floral shop that is dedicated to creating good jobs, Farmgirl Flowers is also focused on maintaining a sustainable supply chain, and minimizing waste in the floral industry. "INSTEAD OF HAVING 40-60% WASTE OF FLOWERS, WE HAVE LESS THAN 1% WASTE." -CHRISTINA, FOUNDER OF FARMGIRL FLOWERS Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Christina chat about the complicated supply chain behind the floral industry, and the impact it has on farmers, and the environment - especially when it comes to waste. The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat: 40% of cut flowers are thrown away in the U.S. because the shops can't sell them before they die. Flower shops must up-charge their bouquets in order to compensate for the flowers that are expected to be wasted. Ritual Roasters, first place Christina sourced burlap coffee bags from for their flower wraps. Christina took inspiration from In-N-Out B

In episode 88, Kestrel welcomes Annette Lasala Spillane, the founder and CEO of TARA (The Artisan Row Accessories), to the show. Known for their buildable fine jewelry, TARA intentionally designs each piece so it stands beautifully on its own, but can also be stylishly interchanged with with other pieces in their collection. Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Annette chat about the era of customization, whether it's here to stay, and in what capacity. They also discuss individual ideas of personal style, and innovative ways to make the clothes in your closet go a long way. The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat: Will Mass Customization Work For Fashion? -via Business of Fashion “I don’t think that complete free-for-all, white canvas customisation works. What works is certain parameters that a designer has left for the consumer. It’s potentially 10 or 20 percent designed by the customer, enough that it feels individual, without tampering with the creative direction of the b

In episode 87, Kestrel welcomes Eric Korman, the CEO and Founder of PHLUR, an Austin-based startup that is the first all-digital fragrance company.  With PHLUR, customers get an immersive online experience where they can view images, playlists and horoscope-like descriptions to choose their fragrance style without actually having to smell it first. Apparently, it's scientifically proven that humans smell first with their eyes. "One thing that's kind of crazy about the fragrance category is that brands aren't legally required to disclose what they put in the bottle." -Eric, CEO of PHLUR Eric shares insight into the psychology of scent, and how these concepts drove his framework for building his company.  The second you spray fragrance on your body, the scent begins to evolve because your body is a little heater. Dr. Rachel Herz, expert on the psychology of scent Anne Serrano McClain, helps develop PHLUR's scents IUCN Red List, list of endangered + threatened plant species, which are all prohibited from being

In episode 86, Kestrel welcomes Jessica Marati Radparvar, the founder of Reconsidered, to the show. A boutique consultancy that helps organizations build impactful social responsibility strategies, communications and community, Reconsidered is all about driving positive behavior change. "Reconsidering and just taking a second look at things that we've always taken for granted is something that's so needed in this day-in-age, because business as usual is not an option - it simply isn't." -Jessica of Reconsidered Throughout this chat, Jessica shares stories about her path, and how she has found herself enthralled with the social impact conversation, and especially, innovative approaches to shifting behavior. She shares her thoughts on where we are today when it comes to telling the sustainable fashion story, and where she thinks we can improve moving forward. Sign up for Jessica's bomb bi-weekly newsletter that features thought-provoking content on corporate responsibility, sustainability and social impact. He

In episode 85, Kestrel welcomes AmyAnn Cadwell, the Cofounder & Editor-in-Chief of The Good Trade, to the show. A digital media company featuring brands, products & ideas dedicated to social good, The Good Trade is known for its elevated aesthetics and accessible writing style.  "We're all on different places on the spectrum, and our goal is to really come meet people where ever they are with maybe that next step or that helpful story or that helpful point of action that kind of meets them right where they are." -AmyAnn, cofounder of The Good Trade Throughout this chat, AmyAnn shares her interesting path into the conscious fashion and lifestyle world. She also shares her thoughts on what social good means to her, and how she's building it into the framework of The Good Trade.  Also, AmyAnn shares insight into creating a platform with aesthetics in mind, and the importance she and her team place on visuals within their storytelling. Here are a few of the things brought up throughout this chat: What It

In episode 84, Kestrel welcomes Danny Clayton, the founder of Salt Gypsy, to the show. A Byron Bay-based curated surf boutique and independent surf lifestyle supplier, Salt Gypsy celebrates female surf athleticism, diversity and style in the lineup. "If I as a small business can source and produce gear using a lycra that's made with 78% recycled polyamide, then why are not mainstream brands or bigger businesses using that as well; why is it not industry standard?" Throughout this conversation, Danny shares the backstory of how Salt Gypsy evolved into a brand that offers iconic surf leggings as well as surf gear for the discerning woman of the ocean. For Danny, she spends a lot of time in the water, so she wanted to create something that could protect her skin from the sun, but also help her look cool in the lineup. Additionally, Kestrel and Danny discuss the (un)sustainability of the traditional surf industry. From the foam and resin in the making of the boards to the surf wax, there’s a lot of petroleum tha

In episode 83, Kestrel welcomes Matt Scanlan, the CEO and cofounder of Naadam, to the show. Naadam is a fashion label that responsibly sources and produces luxury knitwear while preserving nomadic lifestyles in Mongolia. "It's all about an equitable agreement where they're [nomadic herders] getting something and we're getting something; we get better material, they get a level of economic sustainability that didn't exist before." In this chat, Matt shares the wild story of how he and his cofounder ended up finding themselves literally in the world of cashmere, through the friendships they made with nomadic herders in Mongolia. He also walks us through why the traditional cashmere industry had been rigged in the past. A couple of notes from the chat: Naadam doesn't have any contracts with the nomadic herders they work with; instead out in the countryside, as Matt explains, "what matters is the respect, the honor, the trust, the loyalty - that's how you build the relationships" Hand combing is a humane and tr