The Trainingbeta Podcast | A Rock Climbing Podcast

About Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.  By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best.  He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a